‘Ghana boy’ tunic in ‘The Clamor of Ornament’ at the Drawing Center

Featuring multicolor embroidery and emblems from urban life, ‘Ghana boy’ tunics like this one currently on view at the Drawing Center were worn by Malian workers who’d migrated to Ghana’s coastal cities.  The garments might depict tools of a trade (e.g. a barber’s scissors), fashionable clothing or vehicles (motorbikes to airplanes) and speak to the experience of the wearer.  On view in the Drawing Center’s wide-ranging design exhibition ‘The Clamor of Ornament:  Exchange, Power and Joy from the 15th century to the present,’ this tunic demonstrates self-fashioning between cultures.  (On view in SoHo through Sept 18th).

“Ghana Boy” style tunic (back), unknown artist, Mali, cotton cloth with multicolor embroidery, c. 1960s-70s.
“Ghana Boy” style tunic, unknown artist, Mali, cotton cloth with multicolor embroidery, c. 1960s-70s.

Margarita Cabrera in ‘say the dream was real and the wall imaginary’ at Jane Lombard Gallery

The artists in ‘say the dream was real and the wall imaginary,’ Jane Lombard Gallery’s excellent group exhibition organized by curator and critic Joseph R. Wolin, deftly negotiate cultural boundaries in contexts that vary from imaginary cities to remote villages.  Margarita Cabrera’s cacti are a standout; known for her ongoing collaborations with immigrants in the Southwestern U.S., Cabrera creates plants crafted from border patrol uniforms and invites Mexican migrants to embroider them with emblems that communicate personal histories.  Featuring designs including an American flag, stick figure portraits of family members, a church building and more, the sculptures communicate shared values and dreams.  (On view through April 23rd in Tribeca).

Margarita Cabrera and collaborators, Space in Between – Nopal #5, border patrol uniform fabric, copper wire, thread and terra cotta pot, 50 x 51 x 49 inches, 2016.

Tony Cox at Marlborough Gallery

Dramatically colored abstract forms rise off the canvases in Tony Cox’s engaging new show of textured panels at Marlborough Gallery in Chelsea.  Inspired by psychotherapy and Jungian psychology, Cox emerged from a recent health crisis to create labor intensive works that reward contemplative viewing.   (On view through August 2nd).

Tony Cox, Shadow Taser, thread, acrylic, suede, lamb leather, twisted lipcord, poly stuffing on canvas in walnut frame, 73 ½ x 57 ½ inches, 2019.

Abdoulaye Konate at Blain Southern

Inspired by his home country’s rich tradition of textile working, Malian artist Abdoulaye Konate employs colorful patterns, cut-out shapes and embroidery to depict a sea abundant with life.  As with many of his representational works, Konate alludes to social issues including the desertification of the country and the lack of access to clean water while he celebrates the beauty of its traditional fabrics and indigo dyes.  (On view at Blain Southern in Chelsea through June 15th).

Abdoulaye Konate, installation view of ‘Ocean, Mother and Life,’ textile, 118 1/8 x 229 7/8 inches, 2015.

Cayce Zavaglia at Lyons Wier Gallery

Cayce Zavaglia pushes realism into new territory in her stunningly deft embroidered portraits of friends and family.  Long stitches become smooth lengths of hair while tiny dense ones create the interplay of light and color on skin.  Here, Hudson’s youthful face and textured plaid shirt stand out against an electric, lime-colored background.  (On view in Chelsea at Lyons Wier Gallery through June 2nd).

Cayce Zavaglia, Hudson, hand embroidery: crewel wool on Belgian linen with acrylic background, 15.5 x 13.25 inches, 2017.